Saturday, March 16, 2013

Christmas Family Traditions



December 18,2011


       Christmas preparations for my family start right after Halloween's Trick or Treat. As soon as the last horror mask and artificial pumpkin is packed ( artificial, of course, we're in the Philippines), our house transforms into Christmasland with the Christmas tree in the center and the twinkling star lanterns or parol outside the windows. Then, there are the fairy lights. We can never have enough of fairy lights.
        For the celebrations on Christmas eve and day itself, I must tell you, we really get goin' in my family. I belong to a very big family on both my mother's and father's sides. Mommy and Daddy both have 10 brothers and sisters on their sides,so I have 20 uncles and aunts... and with an average of 3-6 children per uncle and aunt,I must have around 100-120 cousins, who in  their generation, have 2-3 children each. Our family is also extended : my dad and his sibs, having been orphaned early, were taken into families of their aunties and uncles and grew up, dormed and studied in the city with their cousins and so are sibling-close with them, to that effect. How many guests do we have in the house for Christmas? You do the maths and you better be good at permutations.
        And then I married into a family with nine children. You can do the maths again. You can imagine how much shopping, gift giving, eating and partying happens during Christmas for me and my family.
      On Christmas eve, my sister Vicky has made it a tradition for the past few years to invite our immediate family to her home. She cooks up a feast but that doesn't stop us from bringing our favorite foods. So we have a table groaning with food, glorious food. Until now, there are still no staples. Each year is experimental. We love trying new recipes in the family, and Christmas justifies buying all these expensive ingredients. One time it was a New England Dinner with pot roast, potato salad, mashed potatoes and classic apple pie.The only thing missing was the Yorkshire pudding, a trifle or a plum pudding and snow.
        For breakfast on Christmas Day, we  wake up at 4 am and start packing for what we call a Christmas marathon, for indeed we will show up in three family parties for the day, from breakfast to dinner, in three different locations.
        Breakfast with the Gutierrezes in Cavite is a pot luck affair. Lola Nanay prepares pans of Canalones Montaner, a savory canneloni casserole made from ground pork and Majestic scrap ham and livers, wrapped in very light, homemade crepes and topped with cream and melted cheese.This goes well with warm pan de sal or the sweet moist raisin bread a la Baguio Country Club which Patrick and Annie bring from Marikina. There is also Lola Nanay's homemade ham, rich in flavor and aroma, cured lovingly for 3 weeks and then baked with cloves, pineapple juice and brown sugar. Nothing is like it, not Majestic nor Purefoods nor Adelina's Christmas ham. Christmas is not Christmas without Marca Pina queso de bola, grapes and apples, potato/fruit/macaroni salad on the table. Lola's apple-walnut cake and lemon poppy seed cake recipes  have been perfected by daughter-in-law, Maricor, and caps the delicious homey breakfast.
        The lunch menu with my mother's relatives at Quezon City or Alabang is very traditional Filipino. The main star is always Lola Andeng's Karekare, tripe and oxtail, fastidiously cleaned and tenderized, then stewed in a thick orange sauce made from garlic, onions, achuete, real ground peanuts and thickened with ground rice. No peanut butter for the karekare in this family. Everyone scoops around the dish looking for that thickest soft slice of 'tuwalya', best eaten with a sweetish bagoong, hot rice and bites of pechay and talong from the karekare. The sauce is so good we pour it over our rice, or even sip it (horrors) from our cups.

         Everyone also looks forward to a good sized, crispy lechon during Christmas. And if some Titas are up to it, we have hot Dinuguan too. Having more aunts and uncles with strokes and hypertension, seafoods are served more often now- fried sugpo, steamed oysters from Tito Nick. The younger generation is lazier and just order pasta or Pansit Malabon, Red Ribbon cakes and ice cream for their contributions. It is understood that we  also bring out our noche buena leftovers of ham, macaroni salad, grapes, apples and castanas(chestnuts) to share with the rest who are having leaner Christmases. Children line up for their Aguinaldos given in small, red ampaw envelopes. For the grown ups, gifts are shared and there is a lot of updating,gossip, chatting and picture taking for the rest of the afternoon.
            There is some time for a nap in my family's house after this. My dad being the eldest son, hosts the family party for the Casanovas in the evening. The big family starts trooping in at 7 pm. With roots in Romblon, and intermarriages with people from the North, the evening menu is a mishmash of urban, Visayan and Ilocano cuisine.  Staples on the table are Lechon funded by dollars from our US based relatives (we look at the lechon's head and voila, they are with us in spirit every Christmas), Tita Munding's  tart and spicy dinuguan (my favorite), my mom's karekare, Julet's Kalderetang Kambing, Reggie's Papaitan, Lolet's excellent tasty balut from Sta. Maria, Bulacan cooked in a flavorful seasoned broth, Tita Au's Buko salad with a “secret” or her refrigerator cakes. Tita Abel and Tita Cely are sure to bring in special pastries or pansit. And my mom makes sure there is lots of fresh fruits like mangoes, ponkans and bananas to balance the heavy meal. Young aunts and cousins bring in Red ribbon cakes. There is always a cousin who emcees the games and talent shows for the  children, and then the litany of names and gifts over the sound system until midnight. You think people would have given up on food by this time, but after the fun games and raucous laughter, the family is again hungry and hovers around the long dinner table, checking out newly served dishes or desserts.
          It is a indeed a Christmas marathon, but a pleasurable and fun filled one. Food, laughter, stories, gossip and gifts shared make it all worthwhile. The daily grind can be lonely and predictable and can sap our life of memories, of joy and laughter, of sense of belonging to  big warm families.  I'm glad there is Christmas to bring it all back, even for just a day.


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